I MADE IT TO WEEK 4!!!!!! I was simultaneously elated and stressed when I found out though, because sewing to these deadlines has certainly been a challenge! I am beyond excited to share our final look(s) though as I am in love with every piece I made.
Signature style is so vague….i’m fairly eclectic so I tried my best to really focus and think about the essence of my creations. I like making things that are classic, yet edgy. I like contrast and lots of solids but love a statement print. I love working with denim, but also love cuddly soft knits… and leather. Oh and metal details? Divine.
Ultimately though, I love making collections. Mini capsules. Whatever you want to call it. Maybe it started because I made lots of matching family looks and I spent a lot of time creating things that coordinate more than directly match? Or maybe because every time I made myself something I love, I felt like nothing else I had matched….so I started making this girl capsules when she was about 3 or 4. Mix or match, coordinating pieces.
I also really love finishing details. I like for a garment to pretty inside and out. It makes the piece last so much longer, and able to be passed down. Some of this girl’s clothes have been worn thoroughly by her, passed through two cousins, then come back to be worn by little sister so I love things that can last.
So I’ll explain each piece in the order I made it. You can read into that however you’d like. First up, this colorful top. It’s this gorgeous stretch chiffon from Joanns many years ago that has a geometric floral…it’s like bridging my love of design with my mathiness, so makes perfect sense. Plus, there’s so much vibrant color to play off of. I started with the Juniper from Sew A Little Seam as I needed a basic block that would work with wovens. The pattern has the option for a front or back placket but I chose instead to leave both off and do a keyhole back for her to get in and out. I used a facing to finish off the back keyhole and narrow self made bias for the neck, that extends to form a tie. For the shirt itself, I used French seams to enclose the shoulders and sides, as well as sleeves. Warning, French seamed sleeve heads take some serious patience. I cut the sleeve pattern piece down the middle and added hem allowance so that I could do a split sleeve since she loves dramatic sleeves in every form. The sleeves are connected at the sleeve head, then split open, tacked at elbow, and flare out at the end (I also straightened the sleeve piece out so that it would flare out). I had originally planned to not tack the elbow and instead have a tie at the wrist but she was insistent we go this direction. For the bottom of the shirt, I used a narrow rolled gently curved hem.
Next up, she needed jeans. Off the rack jeans do not ever fit her as she has a super narrow waist, curved hips, and long legs….such problems to have, right? Anyway, jeans never fit both her hips and waist, and never are the right length. I started with the Avenue Flares from Stay + Stitch to make a wide leg tailored jean. I redrafted the front completely to have a sailor style button closure, and straightened the legs so they were fitted through the hips but wide below and less flared at the bottom, plus made the hem a bit deeper. I used satin facings (from Minerva) for the top, adding pockets below the buttons and leaving them off the back for a cleaner look. I also finished some of the facings with narrow bias (but not all so as to not have them be too bulky and show). I used some gunmetal grey tack buttons with a rose motif for the closures. The denim is this stunning stretch denim I picked up from the Paris fashion district….shopping there was amazing.
She absolutely loves long skirts, not caring how impractical they can be for playgrounds as she’s more ‘tea in a castle’ style most of the time. I knew I wanted something full and spin worthy, so I started with a half circle skirt, and slashed and spread to add knife pleats around one side. I had it be a wrap style and created closures from leatherette scraps (fairly certain those came from a shop in Munich?) and purse hardware. The ‘rivets’ on the leather are actually small snaps that help stabilize and close the skirt. The waistband itself is a slightly contoured rectangle, lined in soft brushed athletic. I enclosed the entire top of the skirt inside and topstitched all the way around. The fabric I used is random stuff my husband bought for me in Thailand (once upon a time, he traveled a lot for work) and I *think* it’s most likely refined ponte….but who knows. It is fairly bulky though so I mitred the hem corners.
Next, she saw a top while we were browsing pinterest that she needed, so I set about making a sweater to go with everything else. I used French terry provided by Minerva for it, and the Knoxville pattern from New Horizons Designs as it has good ease for a sweater. I redrafted the front to take out the knot and add a curved placket. I interfaced those placket pieces, understitched, then added grommets down the length. Those placket facings also made the split hem be nice and tidy inside. For the tie, I sewed a long fabric tube from the fabric to lace through. As I said, she loves a fun sleeve so I couldn’t disappoint here and chose to mirror the knife pleats on the skirt and slashed and spread the sleeve head to add three pleats. I love the subtle detail they give!!
Last she needed a layering piece to stay warm, so I had my heart set originally on a leather moto jacket but it just didn’t make sense to use that with a split sleeve, so I made her a lush wool capelet instead. I mean, how can I be living in Ireland and not include some wool in our final look?? I used fab wool blend coating from Mibs Fabrics, and drafted a circle capelet so that it would be nice and full and seam free. I cut the neck off-center for a high low and added a funnel collar in the style of the Violette Field Threads Alba. I finished the keyhole, neckline and hem in satin bias binding (I cut my own from more of Minerva‘s bridal satin). For the collar, I finished the inside edge and narrow binding and stitched in the ditch to catch it. The hem has wider bias as it peaks out thanks to the high low shape. I added another rose tack button to the neckline and then added rows of snaps both as a visual effect (mirroring the jeans) and to snap it under the arms if she chooses to have sleeves. Bonus, it’s easy to get on over all of her statement sleeve tops!
Now, the photo shoot. We are in phase 5 lockdown currently, and weather in Ireland in October/November….let’s just say it’s not a strong tourist season. So might as well go signature style there, and take pics right on the street outside our house. Seeing as we cannot go more than 5km away right now anyhow…and weather has been very wet and windy so we needed to time things just right between showers. Of course, I have to throw some sheep, cows, and stone walls in though. Just to give you a true sense of our home.
Hope you’ve enjoyed following me with this competition. I’m happy with what it’s pushed me to create, and really enjoyed thinking beyond the pattern to make truly unique things. I have valued this experience so much!! Don’t forget to vote though if you haven’t already!!!
deriving mommyhood 