I first started blogging when I was very inspired by Project Run&Play and their challenges, and needed to link up while I sewed along. Now some of my favorite pattern designers are in the mix (including a couple I’ve pattern tested for) so I felt the need to sew along again!

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This week’s theme is Willy Wonka. We randomly just watched the newer version in the yard last week yet still, I went original for the inspiration. Just for the record, however, I’m team remake. Book loyalist that I am, I have to side with the Tim Burton version.

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For the big girl, I made an Andromeda top from Sew Straight (Terri’s competing! and it’s the first pattern I’ve ever tested!) out of some slinky gold fabric. Very golden ticket/Gene Wilder I think? The bottoms are crushed velvet Carita Joggers from New Horizons because she needed a touch of velvet to channel Wonka of course. And Carita Joggers are life.

For the mini, I went with Violet Beauregarde. Because this little round thing reminds me of a blueberry anyway 😉 I mashed the Olivia top and Cerena Romper bottom, both from Rebecca Page, and made it from navy liverpool. Somehow all the fabrics I used were from LA Finch. They are like the candy land of fabric perhaps?

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Anyway, hope you enjoy! The daughter is disappointed I didn’t make Charlie Bucket at the VERY least for her brother….maybe next time….

 

 

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Have you ever found a pattern company, saw the options, and then immediately decide that you need to sew all of them in a day?

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I recently discovered Misusu and after making one pattern….I need them all. The patterns are so fresh and modern, and the directions are amazing. There’s a flow chart on the Piper top that makes my heart flutter.

I was invited to talk about some of the free patterns available…and most designers have a couple free patterns, sure. They are usually something fairly basic to give you an idea of what to expect before you buy….but these can easily get you a full kid’s wardrobe and I didn’t even include all the options.

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First sew was the Olli Lined Pants for baby girl. I went with a lightweight denim chambray lined with cotton lycra, and included lots of gold topstitching. I went with just one pocket because baby girl doesn’t really store much in her pockets these days. I love the gusset to give a bit more space for her diaper bum and the finises made me feel like a sewing rockstar.

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I went ahead and made the unlined Summer Olli shorts for the youngest boy next. They are drafted for wovens, but I used some plush back sweatshirting instead. The seamlines on these make them absolutely perfect for a little guy who cannot.keep.still. I left out the side pockets because the fabric was on the thick side already and also I am a little nervous about checking his pockets these days (frogs and nerf darts oh my….).

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Did I mention those patterns are free?!

On to make tops for both. For the little guy, I went with the Rowan tee (FREE too, and recently updated). I didn’t have enough of the whales so I colorblocked with some viscose stripe. I just chose a spot on the pattern (the pocket line actually) and made sure I added seam allowance to both pieces, cutting at the same spot on front and back.  The Origami Boat was a perfect little detail to add on – I included it at the pocket line marking. It helps him get dressed, too as the boat goes in the front! Oh, and boat pattern? Free, too.

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Baby girl needed a top too, and the Dia sweater had me at first sight. I decided to make it into a top instead of sweater by cutting the sleeves and banding them (I measured around baby girl’s biceps to figure out how tight to make the band). This is all lightweight cotton lycra. I love the little puff sleeves and the button collar option.

And then….of course…the older girl always has all the homemade clothes and the Doris Skirt needed to happen. I love how fun and different it is than other skirts out there. I made it from the same sweat as the boy’s shorts, and added in the cotton lycra I used for baby girl’s pants and sweater. For a top, I used the Piper tank that just released with the petal back.

To add some detail, I added the Flower Applique (another free pattern!!). It is for felt flowers, but I’m a rebel and just used knit scraps from the fabrics I was using. I wanted it to be subtle since there’s already a lot going on with this outfit.

Better yet? Not enough free patterns? Elles is giving away one Misusu pattern to one of my amazing IG followers…so click on over to the post for details to enter – instagram.com/derivingmommyhood. And go ahead and like Misusu for more info on the Freekin’ Sewing challenge.

….I’m literally obsessed with all of these looks. Can you tell?

Fabrics used: print cotton lycra from Jumping June Textiles (Basket of Wheat is Bloom Copenhagen and whales are Elvelyckan), ribbing from Jumping June Textiles, Sweat from Metre Rabbit UK, stripe viscose jersey from Dress Fabrics, marl cotton lycra solids from Mibs Fabrics UK

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I have an awesome Lisse Hoodie from New Horizons that I made over a year ago and loved the look of, and I knew it would be a great choice for postpartum wardrobe because the petals are flattering on a mommy tum….so I decided to hack the pattern to be slightly more nursing friendly. Remember this is my first cold weather baby so my usual Florida nursing wardrobe of tanks is not the best…so here goes.

 

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I didn’t take pictures of the process but I’ll do my best to explain anyway….

There’s only two small changes to cutting it out…one, for the front top bodice piece, you’ll need to cut it about an inch longer than the pattern piece. Also, you’ll need to cut a second front upper bodice for the nursing layer (this one does not need extra length).

 

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This is a picture from the Valencia nursing hack, but same idea

To construct it, I first layered the outer top bodice over the nursing layer, both right sides up, then but the back bodice right side down, lining up shoulder seams. I stitched the shoulder seams together, then flipped it right sides out. Next, I added elastic to the top of the outer top bodice. I measured below my bust line with a piece of 1/2″ elastic, stretching it to be snug (just around the front of me, from side seam to side seam). I serged this to the bottom of the top front bodice on the bottom so it was on the inside, then folded it under and topstitched it down.

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Next, the nursing layer. I used really lightweight french terry for this with poor recovery so I didn’t want to just cut holes because I worried they would sag….so I folded the bodice piece in half and cut curves from bottom through armscye, all the way through. img_9885.jpg

Risky move, I know. I serged clear elastic, barely stretching it, to all the cuts then basted it back together (very very slightly overlapping it).

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Next up, I basted the top of the front bodice pieces together and sides, making sure the elastic was just past the nursing layer so that it wouldn’t show the nursing layer when it was down. The rest of the construction I followed the pattern, except only attach the front lower bodice petals to the nursing layer only, leaving the upper top bodice free to pull up.

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Hope that helps! I’m here for questions if you have them.

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This post contains affiliate links to fund further sewing projects.

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Rebecca Page announced she was making a new trench coat pattern….with detachable hood….and I needed it. It’s perfect for Irish rainy weather. But, I didn’t want to tackle one for myself while pregnant….so I decided Charlotte NEEDED a trench coat. Plus, as of now she only has a puffy ski jacket and hoodies, so it’s nice to have something a bit fancier, right?

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I’ve paired it with the Arabella skirt, also from Rebecca Page

I had to make it red after seeing inspiration on Pinterest. Totally way less useful, but a red trench. C’mon. I went with red twill from Dress Fabrics, then decided the key to make her wear it was to make it cozy and warm (she takes after her dad and is cold ALL the time) so I got some thin microfleece from Joanns (back when I was visiting the states…ah, easy shopping). For fun, I used some polka dot poplin for lining pockets, hood and yokes (that came from my local store, Quilt Yarn Stitch).

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So I tackle this jacket, that has an absolutely ridiculous number of pattern pieces thanks to so many options, so printing and assembling the pattern alone took me a couple days…and try it on her, she says it’s too snug. Yeah, it’s fitted through shoulders and arms like a coat would be and all she wears is soft stretchy stuff, so makes sense that she is not liking the feel. Boo. So I decide to line the sleeves in poly lining fabric to make it easier to get on and off and less bulky. I should say that she measures a 3/4 in Rebecca Page patterns through the chest, but 7/8 for height. I cut a 5/6 though to give her more ease, adding the 7/8 length. If I had it to do over I’d do a 7/8 all over though for extra roominess, especially since I went with a bottom weight for the outer and heavier lining as well. Luckily she’s having a little sister. If you look at the fit on the shoulders, I’d say it measures accurately for the pattern…just a combo of heavy weights and her liking stretchy, loose clothes.

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All in all, I love it. I love all the details. I did both front and back yokes, welt pockets (was going to do patch but thought they were a little thinner than I’d prefer) and the hood of course for rain purposes. Also, the longest length (there’s a coat cut length as well).

 

The directions, as always for her patterns, were very easy to follow. There’s something like 100 pages so there’s no confusing steps at all for such a complex pattern. There are, however, so many buttons. So much hand sewing. Good for sitting in front of a movie to finish it off 🙂 Pattern is here and also comes in ladies and doll sizes.

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So many amazing patterns have been coming out lately that I want to tackle….then I remember that I’m not quite the right shape for most patterns…luckily, Charlotte can still wear them 😉

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Terra from New Horizons just released the Tawsha Dress and from the first preview photo I knew I NEEDED it. It’s like all of my Pinterest dreams in one. There’s two main views, split or solid back, and ruffle bottom, solid band bottom, or no contrast….and then the shoulder accent. Ah, the shoulders. Love it.

 

Of course, I made two. First up, the split back with ruffle bottom. The buttons down the back are from my grandmother’s collection (all collected off of clothing from who knows how long ago…she’s 97 now) and the fabric is So Sew English. That plaid double brushed poly is an absolute favorite of mine.

Next, I did a solid back version with solid band and shoulder accents. I used a panel and coordinates from Rachel’s own collection at Jumping June Textiles. It reminds me of Charlotte somehow….can’t quite pinpoint why….IMG_5617

The faux leather on the shoulder and bottom band is from a shop in the Paris textile district. It was both overwhelmingly terrifying and amazing to shop there.

The pattern also comes in adult sizes but alas, I’m not quite ready for it yet. Plus, it’s on sale for another day over at New Horizons (you can purchase girls, womens, or bundle of both).

It’s no secret, I make a lot of things for the kids and myself…and not so much for the husband. But occasionally I do break down and think of him. Christmas present time!

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He is always cold here in Ireland and needed some new cozy sweaters, so I let him search through the cuddly french terry I had and pick his favorite so I could make him an Elevation Hoodie from New Horizons. I showed him the pattern I was making, too, and he said, “Great! Now just do one less stripe maybe…and instead of a hood, like a sweater collar?” Like that’s just no problem, right? Sigh. I set to work figuring out how to modify it since he really wanted it to wear in his cold office at work….and hoodie for work just didn’t fit.

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Taking a colorblocked section away is easy, just overlap the pattern pieces by the seam allowance when you go to cut them out. The collar, however, took me far more time.

I have a shawl collar pattern for kids from the Bimaa Sweater and I used that for inspiration. Obviously it wouldn’t work as is on a men’s XL hoodie, but the basic shape and idea was a good launching point. I also went ahead and cut the collar into a V to match the V on the colorblocked portion.IMG_5363.JPG

After a few attempts, I got the shape I was looking for and sewed it together. He loves it, especially how soft the french terry is (the charcoal is a rayon blend from LA Finch that I am now officially out of and already miss….navy was from a destash group). He’s a huge fan of the kangaroo pocket as well…and has already worn it to work and made everyone jealous.

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Happy Christmas Sewing!

 

I’m getting to that lovely stage of pregnancy where clothes stop fitting and I get the belly underdraft…so when Rebecca Page came out with the drawstring ruched Pippa Yoga Pants….I needed a comfy french terry pair.

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I started with Charlotte’s, so I could test it out and get through mine faster. Hers are 3/4 length from some viscose jersey. I did a 3/4 width and size 6 length. For pants length, I would have needed to add a few inches to the pants line on the pattern. Apparently, she’s growing….these will be great as beachwear and swim coverup for our cruise and Florida vacations. Ah, warm weather. In small spurts.

For my own, I used LA Finch black french terry with a waistband in double brushed poly (it’s an in house print from So Sew English). They are so comfortable. I measured my inseam against the pattern and thought I was fine, but my thighs ate some length I think…I’ll add an inch or two to the next pair. And since they take 20 minutes to make, of course there’s a next pair.

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The pattern also has a non-drawstring waist, but I like the added height and cinchability for pregnancy. These are just the regular version, I didn’t do any mods to make them maternity…so they should be great postpartum as well 🙂

Grab the ladies pattern here, or girl’s here….there’s a doll’s version also but don’t tell my daughter… bundle of all 3 patterns is here.

 

Affiliate Links help fund more fabric and patterns but opinions are always mine.

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New Horizons never lets me down with their fun patterns, so the Summit Peak Hoodie had to happen. My oldest has been requesting a hoodie that covers his face and cinches in for over a year, but I didn’t have a pattern in mind…I had an image of Kenny from Southpark in mind, but no pattern…luckily Terra made EXACTLY what he asked for.  And it wasn’t as comical as I pictured. Of course, had to make a second for his sister also.

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The pockets are in seam and the princess seams on the front make it fun for colorblocking also. It looks so sporty with those side panels. Plus raglan sleeves are always awesome for kids…way easier than set in ones to sew. Hers is scuba from So Sew English with LA Finch French terry for side panels, pockets, and inside the hood. I might be including much more mint/aqua in her capsule, apparently.

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His has some amazing Majapuu French Terry from Jumping June Textiles, accented with yoga brushed poly scraps from Knitpop. I used tubular binding for both as I find it holds up best for knit cuffs.

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I also really love the finishing on the hood so that there’s no seam visible. Yeah, I had to use a million pins…but worth it.

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Pattern is available here and is on sale for a bit…I can’t wait until there’s an adult version 🙂

 

This post contains affiliate links but opinions are always mine.

I fell in love with the Blythe top from Sew a Little Seam from the first sneak peek and I knew I needed to make one (or a few….) for Charlotte.  So, first was a drop waist, tunic length, long sleeve, with faux layer option, and keyhole back with ribbon tie (can you tell the pattern has a TON of options?!?).

I used cotton lycra from Quilt Yarn Stitch with striped cotton lycra binding from Dress Fabrics, with ruffle out of lightweight viscose from Generaldiff (in Paris!). LOVE how it turned out…so sweet and girly!!

So of course I tackled another immediately, using striped french terry and chambray binding and ruffle (both from Dress Fabrics). This is the top length, also with keyhole back…but I did button closure and TRIED to do the shirt band…but attached it backwards…so let’s pretend that was a design element, shall we? I did the rolled 3/4 sleeve and love how preppy this top is. It’s tempting me to make her some white skinny jeans…

Oh, and right now there’s a discount code in the Sew a Little Seam Facebook group to get the pattern for $4.90!

I did whip up some skinny jeans out of black ponte from LA Finch to continue growing her capsule as well, they were much needed and shop options were all too wide or too short…I used the Peekaboo pattern shop Skinny Jeans with elastic for the waist.

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She has quite the little handmade wardrobe so far!

 

Yeah, I’ll admit it. I love sewing for my little girl. It’s easy, she enjoys it, and she absolutely loves that I custom make her clothes. She treats them like treasures. Her older brother?Destroys every piece of clothing. I still consider putting him in bibs to eat. I worry if he’s color blind when he gets dressed in the morning. When planning her capsule wardrobe, I started to plan his….then realized that would be ridiculous because I would cry when he destroyed it all.

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I bought him clothes at Penney’s*  for as cheaply as possible, making sure it was all the darkest colors I could get.

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But occasionally, he does want something just for him. I let him search through patterns and he asked, maybe begged, for a P51 Flyer Jacket from New Horizons. I tried to talk him into something simpler but he thought it looked really hip and cozy. I gave in, let him search my fabric, and got to work.

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I went with a coated denim for the main fabric because it’s waterproof, and I thought it would be easier than pleather for my first try at the pattern. To line it, I used super soft acrylic plaid from Joanns.  It feels like really silky flannel.

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My only complaint? He looks a little too grown up strutting around in it. Like way too old. When did he grow up?!? It does a great job keeping him warm though and also survived the rain test a few times so far.

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I love all the little details on it. It’s not a beginner pattern for sure, but well worth the effort put in to make a quality one-of-a-kind piece. He wore it around Paris, during Paris Fashion Week. I think he felt pretty fancy.

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AND it’s still in one piece and not stained. Bonus.

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*Penney’s is a discount chain here….I think it’s called Primark in the UK? Not to be confused with JC Penney’s…

 

Any affiliate links are to help fund further fabric and patterns so that I can keep on creating, but all opinions are always my own.